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Author Topic:  A Collection of 100 Lure Making Tips part 2  (Read 1411 times)

Offline guppycatcher

A Collection of 100 Lure Making Tips part 2
« on: July 15, 2014, 03:08:19 PM »
Generally you have to learn how to use quick spray shots and very fast covering of the flanks. It should take about 1 second to spray from the tail to the front. Otherwise you spray too much paint on it and then of course you have the chance of getting drips or speckles on parts of the lure where they don't belong.

If you go to Dixieart.com, they will set you up. I have a Paasche VL (double action) and I use the Createx paints that Dixieart has. When spraying these I use the medium tip and to date I have not had a problem with clogging or anything. Hope this helps!

I use the same setup. Createx paints in a Paasche VL with #3 tip and needle. 20-35# air pressure depending on what I am doing. I like the Createx Auto Air better than the standard stuff, but both work fine. No odor at all and cleans up easy.

EYES

When I paint eyes I have used nail heads and wooden dowel rods.

I use nail heads for painting eyes on small lures or small stick-on eyes. For big lures I use 8mm or 12mm diameter stick-on eyes. They exist in plain white with a black dot and yellow or red with a black dot. These are available at Moore's Lures.

I use stick on eyes, both 3D and flat. I have recently found a person who makes beads. I asked her to make glass eyes. She did and they are cool. I have not put them on a lure yet.

For my crankbaits I use a 3D stick on eye that I buy from Stamina Inc. I have been real happy with them. I have found it best not to trust the adhesive that comes with the eyes, and to epoxy them down instead.

I cut a plastic bead about 1/4 inch across the whole and them pin it in place with a cut down panel pin and a spot of super glue, file and smooth the pin head and usually paint a fluorescent color. It makes my lures look like cartoon characters but it it's quick and easy to do and you sure can't miss'em.

I use plastic doll eyes (wish they were glass) from Lewiscraft.

I use plastic teddy bear eyes from Wal-Mart.

I currently use nails for painting the eyes on my lures and have used some of the "peel & stick" holographic eyes. I do like the look of the plastic or glass eyes that some of you use though.

Try pencils with erasers on the end might help. I use mostly foil eyes or 3-D eyes. When using foil I cut out in 2 sizes so I make the eye center in a different color.

CLEAR COAT

I use Envirotex Lite. I guess it would be similar to Devcon in that it gives a hard durable finish. I brush it on and use a propane torch to get rid of any bubbles.

I use a tough clear boat-lacquer.

Go to Wal-Mart and by Devcon 2-ton epoxy. It works the best. Let it get a little thick before you brush it on and it won't run on you. Rotate it several times while its wet.

I seal the finished painted lure with an automotive acrylic lacquer clear coat and start fishing.

I use the 2-ton epoxy by Devcon. I use the brushes that are made by Testors that are sold in the area where they have the model cars. The brush is about a $1.00. Apply the epoxy on thick and then rotate the bait slowly between your fingers for about 15-20 minutes. This will even out the epoxy and the finish will look smooth. Hang the bait tail down after that to finish drying. If you hang it by the tail then if some of the epoxy runs it will make the head of the bait look too thick. Most folks have a drying motor that rotates the bait once they put the clear coat on.

Use Devcon 2-ton epoxy from Wal-Mart. It is about $2.00 a syringe. Put it on with one of the white handled Testors model paintbrushes. The brushes are $1.00 apiece. You will have about 10-15 minutes to get this stuff on your bait. They hotter the temperature you are working in, the faster it sets. Mix your epoxy up and spread it on thick. Rotate the bait for about 15 to 20 minutes between your fingers. This will smooth out the epoxy and make it even. Then hang the bait and let it dry for 8-12 hrs. Do not get the 5-min. stuff. You don't have enough work time and it eventually yellows. Clean up with acetone. I use this on my crankbaits that I make. This stuff is HARD. It will protect your baits far better that automotive lacquer clear coat.

Clear Coat: Simple. Use 2-ton epoxy by Devcon. Get it at Wal-Mart for about $2.00. I use it for everything that gets glue. This stuff is just plain tuff. Get the long drying stuff not the 5-min. The 5-min. epoxy will yellow. The other won't. Use a Testors model paintbrush that they sell at Wal-Mart for a $1.00. This brush works well. Use acetone to clean it with. Paint the stuff on thick. If you don't have anything to rotate the bait on while it dries, then rotate the bait between your fingers for about 15 to 20 min. and then hang the bait up and let it dry for 12 to 24 hours.

I presently dip the finished lure in clear automotive lacquer to give it a tough, waterproof finish that won't yellow. I understand that there is another good final finish and that is Fabulon used to finish wood floors. I haven't found a local source yet to try it out. I understand Creative Lure also has a good finish.

I spoke to the Canadian rep for ETI and he said most people (fishing industry) use EX-88. It's another coating made by ETI.

Some Envirotex tips:
1. "That looks like 50:50" won't work. It must be exactly 50:50 ratio of each part. Get some disposable measuring cups!
2. "I stirred it for 30 seconds just like I do with 5 minute epoxy" won't work either. You must stir for at least 3 minutes. I go 5 minutes.
3. If your Envirotex is working properly, but the coat is uneven, get an old BBQ rotisserie motor or other similar SLOW rotating motor. Attach to it a wooden disc @30 cm in diameter. Attach hooks to the rim of the disc to which you will attach your lures. Try to fasten the motor to a board or whatever so that the disc is on an angle (@45 degrees). Hang your lures, turn on the motor and let them spin.

I seem to remember when I've used polyurethane like finishes in the past they yellow after a while and a pike's sharp teeth soon penetrate the varnish.

I use, at the moment, a product called "Devcon" which I think is a kind of two-part resin glue. What I like about it is that it sets very hard and it takes a while before the pike bite through it. It sticks well enough to most paint finishes except metallic paint and some fluorescents but it's the best I've used yet though it doesn't stick for long to foil. I did cut a crisscross pattern in an attempt to allow a certain amount of soak through to occur.

I use Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Use the stuff that takes 8 hours or so to completely dry. The 15-minute stuff yellows and has a strength of 1500 lbs. The regular 2-ton has a strength of 2500 lbs. It is definitely tougher. I spread it on thick with a Testors model paintbrush. You can get it at Wal-Mart for $1.00. It has a white handle to it. Spread it on even and then spin the bait between your fingers for about 15 - 20 min. Then you can hang the bait to dry. Hang it by the nose if you can. Let it dry for 24 hrs. It is a bit of a hassle to spin the bait if you don't have a drying station, but it is worth it. The regular 2-ton epoxy won't yellow either. Clean your brush with acetone. I pour a little into a baby food jar and just let it sit in there for about 30 min. Then just take the brush out and let it dry. You will be able to reuse the brush often doing this.

I use the Devcon 2-ton for a finish and most of the time I'm perfectly satisfied with it, sometimes it comes off, easily and I don't know why. I smear it on with small flat stick and then blow dry it with a hair drier for a few minutes to warm it up this causes it run a bit more freely and smooth out, then I hang it up and allow the excess drip off.

I use Devcon 30-minute epoxy. I brush it on with a cheap 'kiddie' paintbrush that I get at the dollar store. One use and you throw it away. After I brush the epoxy on, I hang it up and after about 3 - 4 hours its dry.

LIPS

I make my own lips out of Lexan. I purchase 1/8" and cut into strips 3" wide then take 3M Super 77 spray glue and stack them 6 deep. On the top I glue copy paper so you can mark around your patterns. Then I lay my pattern on there and trace and cut out with a bandsaw.

I use 2mm aluminum and 3mm Lexan for the crankbait lips. Aluminum is very good for bigger lures or small sinkers, the Lexan for about any lure, except when adding attachment-eyes to the lip itself. And I use 1.5mm stainless steel wire for bending lure eyes on big lures and 1mm on smaller lures, which I attach in the lip (no through-wire). Just drill two holes in the lip, in the centerline, about 5mm apart. Bend the wire in a U-shape and stick that through the holes. Leave about 5mm above the lip and cut the wire-arms about 1cm below the lip. Grip that 5mm sticking out at the top and turn the lip on its back. You see 2 wire pieces of 1cm sticking out. Bend them 18
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Linkback: https://fishinpedia.com/bass-fishing-forums/tackle-crafting-and-modifying-fishinpedia/20/a-collection-of-100-lure-making-tips-part-2/325/
Rick
U.S.Army forever
BitesBack lures

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